Saturday, July 15, 2023

Kinsale to Belfast

 

Hello again!

Continuing on our Irish Road Show. since our last check-in, we left Kinsale and traveled to Kenmare for a week, then moved on to Galway for 5 days, and just yesterday we arrived in Belfast, Northern Ireland.  
 
We were in Ireland for a month and boy that month went fast.    Tomorrow we are on the ferry bright and early at 0730 headed to Scotland.

But before I get too far ahead of myself, let me back up and start with our departure from Kinsale enroute to Kenmare.

It is only about a 90 minute drive from one to the other, and we had lots of time between our check out and check in times, so we took the scenic route along the coast.

Here is the trip map from our spotwalla page that now shows our whole time in Ireland to date


Some of the views along our coastal route from Kinsale to Kenmare



Our route took us on a loop around the Beara Peninsula.    The photo below is where we started to round the corner and head back east along the north coast of the peninsula.


Our plan was to continue east along the coast.   Then take a mountain road over Healy Pass to the south coast, and back track a bit east to pick up another highway that would take me north to Kenmare.  

But my GPS had a different idea and sent me up this tiny cow path.    As we started to climb into the mountains I said to Kate that something was wrong here and I was going to look for a place to turn around before we got too far up and had to back our way down.

About that time, a man with young daughter came down the road on a 4 wheeler and confirmed my suspicions.   He told me a good place to turn around was right around the next curve and that it would be a good idea to take advantage of the opportunity which we did.

So we back traced our way around the Beara Peninsula, and found, and took, Healy pass from South to North instead.

Starting up Healy Pass

Goats keep watch over the pass

Almost to the top

Healy Pass looking back down from where we came

Looking down on Glanmore Lake from the pass


Around 4pm we arrived at our home for the next 7 nights.
A really nice place about 3km outide of Kenmare just a short drive down a 1-lane road


This place has ranked up there as one of our favorite houses, plus the County Kerry area is really great.

Conservatory

For those down times, we had a great Sky Satellite package with lots of channels.   We've gotten into watching some old Sopranos and Game of Thrones reruns.    The only ding against the place is that internet is supplied my a cell hotspot that is only putting out about 3mb of download speed.   Plenty for email and such, but no streaming.  We are down in a bit of a valley so a booster would be helpful here.

Expansive yard with lots of outdoor furniture

We went into Kenmare several times.   It was a pretty little town with easy to find free parking in the council car park.



While there we made another trip to a vet in Killarney.   Our 4th since leaving NY.  One night Lucy was chewing on a bone and what we thought was part of her molar appeared on the floor.

ARK Veterinary Hospital in Killarney

The good news was that it was not a piece of tooth, but a broken off piece of tartar.   The vet gave Lucy a thorough going over and pronounced her teeth to be sound and in good health.   She went over Lucys previous bloodwork from Wales, and said everything looked good for a 14.5 yr old dog.   Our total vet bill was only €50

Driving back from Killarney we took the scenic route thru Killarney National Park.   Before the week was out we'll have driven thru the park several times.

Driving N71 thru Killarney National Park

Its a very scenic park and attracts visitors from near and far.

Meanwhile, Kate keeps telling me to smile when I take a picture so I gritted my teeth and really beared my choppers here.    

The constipated look

Sisters view in KNP

N71 on the S side of the park

One day we set aside to drive the Ring of Kerry, and another day to visit the Dingle Peninsula.   Kates Irish side came from the Dingle Peninsula and we wanted to visit the small village near Fenit from where her grandmother emigrated.   It was this grandmother who entitled Kate to her Irish Citizenship.

Ring of Kerry drive

Ring of Kerry drive

The village where Kates Grandmother came from is still pretty tiny but larger than the 17 or so properties that were listed on the 1901 Census.   The only RC Church in the immediate area is now in a state of disrepair having suffered during the Troubles.   The graveyard next to it would most likely be where her ancestors would have been buried.   I met some caretakers there and upon discussing with them, they pointed me to the side of the graveyard where they would have most likely been interred.   Unfortunately that side of the graveyard is older and in complete disrepair with broken, eroded, and damaged stones.

On the newer side however, there were plenty of Fitzgeralds of newer vintage and perhaps one of them is a descendant of her grandparents.

Churchill Graveyard - not sure if this is a relative.   Need to research.e

Driving around, Kate was moved knowing that she was looking over the same fields, ocean, and mountains that her ancestors would have.   Mostly unchanged in all of these years.

Views around Fenit

It was about a 90 minute drive from our house to the Fenit area.   Add to that the time spent touring along the way there and back, it was starting to get late.    So again we took a detour thru Killarney National Park.

Sister view in clear weather


A day was also set aside for a visit to the Killarney downtown.   It's such a nice small city.   

We had lunch at an outdoor cafe on this street

Pedestrian mall

Before we knew it, another week had passed by.    Seriously - where do they go?
It was time to hit the road for our next port of call, Galway.
It was about a 2 1/2hr drive going directly, but again, I took the longer route along the coast.
This took us most of the day and included a ferry crossing of the Shannon River near where it empties into the Atlantic.

The Ferry Queue

It was a 30 minute crossing and about 10 minutes into the trip I spotted a pod of dolphins swimming off of the port side.

Dolphins in the Shannon River seen from the ferry

At the halfway point we passed the ferry going in the opposite direction.


One of our stops along the way were the Cliffs of Moher.   They were very scenic (and popular) but unfortunately the light was the worst to capture them.   

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

About 5:30p we were rolling up the driveway of our home for 5 nights.   This place was a small annexe, which means attached apartment to a main house.   The owners were extremely nice and it was a good base of operations for the 5 days we were in Galway.

The Latin Quarter, Galway

We stopped at a pub in the Latin Quarter for a dog friendly lunch.   Ireland is dog friendly but not as much as the UK.    Most places will allow dogs outside, but few allow them inside, unlike in the UK where they can come inside in many many places.

Pup pups

While in Galway we walked to the Spanish Arch.   It is part of the old Medieval wall.   A section that guarded the port facilities.
 

A day trip took us north of the city towards Connemara National Park.    Along the way we stopped at the bridge that was used in filming the old film "The Quiet Man" starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Harra.

The Quiet Man Bridge

John on the bridge

Kate on the bridge

Further down the road we came across Kylemore Abbey.   Unfortunately it was dog unfriendly so we had to bypass it.
Kylemore Abbey on the lake

Further on we entered Connemara National Park.   A mountainous area, was quite pretty but I think Killarney NP was much prettier.

View in Connemara National Park

Driving in Connemara National Park

We timed our arrival back to near our home in time for a late lunch/early dinner.   So by 4 pm or so we were rollup up to Morans Oyster Cottage.   We grabbed a picnic table in the covered section in case of rain.    Soon we were having the obligatory Guiness.


Followed by Oysters Thermidor and steamed garlic Mussels for starters.    We polished that off with Fish & Chips for me and Kate had a whole lobster.


Right on the estuary, the restaurant has a great view.


Thursday was our last day here and it dawned rainy.    We'd had plenty of light rain while here but this was the real thing.   To wet for us dry landers to venture about.    The weather forecast was now for several days of this.

So I set up a few places that we could drive to and view.    The first was a very scenic castle called Dunguaire Castle.    Noted to be one of the most photographed in Ireland due to its scenic perch above the water.      It is called a castle but actually it was not for military purposes, but rather was simply the home of a wealthy individual.  Having your own castle home in those days was the rage.


Next on the list was the Thoor Ballylee Yeats Tower.    Built during the 14th century it is a fine specimen of that style and period.   It was restored by and home to the famous Irish Poet WB Yeats, and is where he wrote many of his works.



Another 5 days passed in the blink of an eye and as I write this, I am sitting in our new home away from home.   A converted barge floating in Belfast Harbor Marina.     It was a windy, rainly 4 hr drive here and when we arrived it was still coming down in buckets.    We had good rain gear, but the dogs....  well that is another story.     Fortunately today it is mostly sunny with just a few periods of light rain here and there.

The living room of "The barge at Titanic"

We are staying in a section of Belfast known as "the Titanic Quarter.
Titanic was built and launched here.   The photo below shows the Titanic Museum in the background.  
The building with the slanted walls.    The Harland & Wolfe Shipyard was right behind that building.  

Also, just to the right of the museum you can see Titanic Studios, where Game of Thrones was filmed.
A lot going on in this small area.


A view of the barge - looking down from the living area to the galley



Looking out over the marina as evening sets in.


Today we visited the Titanic Museum and some of the other Titanic sites right here around the marina.
But I'll bring you up to date on all of that next time.

Tomorrow we have a 0730 ferry departure for Scotland.   Leaving the ferry on the other side we have a 3.5hr drive to the Lake District in England.  

We have to be in the Ferry Queue by 0630 so its off and running in the am.

We'll see you in on the other side of the Irish Sea.




8 comments:

  1. Fun times for certain!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I’m just trying to live up to “the Hatcher method“

      I don’t think anybody I know manages to visit an area, and cover it with such thorough detail, as you two always did.

      When you moved on, you left no stone unturned. We on the other hand are barely scratching the surface. But we will keep trying. ;-)

      Delete
  2. Absolutely amazing photos Greg and I love hearing about all of the places you and Kate visit and experiences that you have . So happy to hear that Lucy’s dental issue was just a broken piece of tartar and I love the photo with your forced smile 😊 Sending hugs and wishing continued safe travels to you and Kate . Love Susan

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sue. Glad you are enjoying riding along. We are keeping busy that’s for sure.

      Delete
  3. Happy for Lucy's tooth and all your safe travels! Loved the photo of Kate on the John Wayne Bridge! The two story barge looked like a great stay with interesting Titanic sights. Thanks for sharing your fun adventures!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It was nice to be back on the water and surrounded by sailboats for a few days. It was interesting to see boats from so many different countries flying their courtesy flags. Being close to other countries I guess it’s quite normal to have a lot of international sailboat visitors.

      Delete
  4. So interesting! While in Belfast our excursion is to the Titanic Museum.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I’ll talk about it in the next post, but I was actually a little bit disappointed in the museum. We both were. I’d give it a 7 1/2 out of 10 the main problem was that they gave appointment slots, but they have sold too many tickets because it was super crowded. The crowds made it difficult to really look at a lot of the exhibit and you felt so claustrophobic that we had to move on if the place was not crowded it would’ve been a much better experience. We were also there on a Saturday and that may have affected it. Normally being retired old folk, we try to do that stuff during the week when we can.

      Delete

We love to hear from you... Please leave us a comment and let us know you are reading. If there is something that you'd like to hear about please let us know. Thanks for visiting!