The loneliest highway in America

Travelers headed east from the Reno - Tahoe - Truckee area have a couple of

options as to which way that they will go....

The road most traveled is Interstate 80.

As a matter of fact, most GPS's and mapping programs will likely send you down

that long boring stretch of interstate.

Another option however - and one that I have taken many times is

US 50 thru Nevada and Utah, where it eventually will join with

Interstate 70 headed east.

The map below shows the path that we took from Donner Memorial

State Park in Truckee, Ca to the Glenwood Springs, Colorado Area.

US 50 was named the Loneliest Highway in America in 1966

by Life Magazine.

It received this distinction due to the long long stretches of road without

any towns or services of any kind.   As a matter of fact, in the stretch between Fallon NV

and Delta, Utah - about 400 miles - there is only one real town of any size. (Ely, NV)

There are two others that have gas stations - so perhaps 3 towns in 400 miles.

What it lacks in services however it pays back in beauty and solitude.

We were making miles while driving US 50 so most of our pictures are shot thru

the windshield but you can get an idea.

We said good bye to Donner Memorial State Park.

This was the view behind our campsite.

We descend into the Nevada Desert and pick up US 50

near Fallon, NV, which is incidentally the home of the

US Navy Top Gun School.

The is the "Basin and Range" Country.

Numerous Mountain Ranges that run north to south, with big valleys

in between.

Running east to west you cross one mountain range, then down into the next

valley and up the next mountain range...  etc etc.

Some stretches you can see the road running straight ahead for 15 miles or so.

It's wide open beautiful country.

We spent the night in Ely.

It was thunder storming and we didn't get any photos that night.

The next morning we hit the road again headed east.

Leaving Nevada behind and entering Utah.

When you hit Interstate 70 in Utah you get to run what I think is

one of the prettiest stretches of Interstate to be found...

The stretch between Salina and Green River.

This stretch is one of the few interstates to be designated a scenic byway.

Seems like the scenery changes about every 20 miles on this run.

This is looking back towards where we came from.  You can see the ribbon

of I70 in the center foreground.

Here the highway descends from the San Rafael Swell.

The route down this canyon has been called one of the most significant

highway engineering feats of its time.

At points the canyon walls were close enough for one person to reach across and

touch both walls before the highway was built.

The walls of the canyon contain one of the largest know collections of

Jurassic Dinosaur remains.

Further down you finally cross into Colorado and eventually

enter the beautiful Glenwood Canyon.

The roadway in this section was not even complete back in my days

as a trucker.   It was still a two-lane thru the canyon.

1.  Our reward for the second night was this campsite on
2. the Colorado River.

The shot below gives you an idea of some of the tools that I have at my disposal.

On the lower right I have Satellite Weather Radar.

I get real time radar (the mode shown)  or actual real-time weather maps.

These come in very useful when making runs in marginal or winter conditions.

On this trip I've used the maps to change my route and avoid some real serious weather.

Last night we had the most amazing night.

About 3 am we awoke to thunder and lightening.

There were actually several flashes of lightening per second, and this lasted

for almost 3 hours.   I have never experienced such a concentrated and long

lasting series of storms such as this.   All during this time the rain came pouring down.

I got up and checked for any warnings to make sure there were no tornados headed

our way.

Meanwhile the poor Doodles were not happy about the Booming of the Thunder.

Especially Gracie who really does not like it at all.

Oh well...  its tough to be a Doodle.

Donner Pass

The story of the westward emigration of the American Pioneers in the

mid 1800's would never be complete without talking about Donner Pass

in California.

Even today, truckers speak of the pass in winter with a sort of reverence and awe,

yet when one looks back in time it takes on an even greater prominence.

It was here in the winter of 1846 that 37 of the original 81 

Emigrants in the Donner-Reed wagon train died.

After taking an unproven shortcut that wound up costing them
precious time they arrived at the east face of the Sierras too late.

Over the winter half died, due to starvation after becoming snowbound
at Donner Lake and the nearby Alder Creek.

Our campsite is right at Donner Lake and a stones throw

away from where some of the cabins were.

Below is Donner Creek which flows gently from the lake.

It would have provided a ready water source.

Today a recreational asset...  A Far cry from 1846.

Beyond the lake and to the left you can see the low pass in the mountains...

It was here that the emigrants where headed for.
After making that pass it would have been

mostly all downhill the final 60 miles to civilization,
but it was not to be...

Arriving at Donner Lake they slept for the night.

That night a halo around the moon predicted bad weather...

The next morning the pass was covered in 5' of snow.

An early Fall snow had blocked the pass.

Still they tried to move their wagons over the pass but had to turn back.

Here is the view back towards Donner Lake from up top on the pass.

Soon a 4' snowfall down in the valley prevented movement in any direction.

By January over 22' of snow had fallen.

The monument below was erected in 1919 in honor of all the pioneers who opened up the west

It was placed in the exact spot where the Breen Cabin Stood.

The pedestal is 22' tall - the height of the snow that winter.

I think the plaque captures the spirit of these incredible people.

Below - about 150 yards from the Breen cabin is this rock.

The rock formed the north face of the Murphy Cabin.

Several miles away at Alder Creek, the Donner Family was first halted by a broken

wagon wheel and then the snow.

There was only time to build a makeshift lean-to against this tree.

24 people were crammed into this small enclosure that was supposed to

protect them from the brutal Sierra winter.

Of the 24 who encamped here - half perished.

 The story of the Donner Party is only one of thousands that make up the history

of the great migration.

You can find some great information and diaries of the Donner Party Here.

The route the Donners tried to take was the best way thru the 

formidable east face of theSierra Nevada Mountains.

This was not lost on the railroad builders who followed.

The Transcontinental Railroad which was completed in 1861 followed this path

across the mountains too, and it was also for this reason that we came here to visit.

The rugged terrain and harsh winters (Donner pass averages 60' of snow per year)

presented a host of challenges.

With brute force and sheer determination they blasted and inched their way

eastward over the sheer cliffs and solid granite.

Snow sheds where build over the tracks so that the trains could run in the winter.

Kate and I climbed up the mountain to walk the old rail beds.

Here we are leaving one tunnel and looking at the next.

Thousands of Chinese Laborers make this railroad possible.

Below is the Chinese Wall - thousands of tons of rock piled up to create an

embankment to hold the railroad bed.

Today some new artists have added their touch to the walls.

Standing in a snow shed and looking into a tunnel.

Looking down to where the truck is parked.

Can you see it in the center of the photo?

 A view of the snow sheds along the mountain face.

Almost 40 miles of snow sheds where constructed to allow the trains to traverse the pass.

Today they are made of concrete but are still needed.

You can now traverse Donner Pass by Auto in a matter of 30 minutes or so...

But in winter the snow still can shut down the pass as the snow piles up.

Still the voices of those early pioneers and then railroad builders

are not too far under the surface.

Its hard to be here and not hear their cries.

Later - one of the survivors - 12 year old Virgina Reed wrote to her cousin back east:

"Oh Mary I have not wrote you half of the trouble we've had,

but I have wrote you enough to let you know what trouble is.

But thank God, we are the only family that did not eat human flesh.

We have left everything, but I don't care for that.

We have got thru with our lives.

Don't let this letter dishearten anybody.

Remember, never take no cutoffs and hurry along as fast as you can.